MFW: sheers and asymmetry at Ports 1961

Fiona Cibani's Spring/Summer 2015 collection got its runway debut Thursday night in Milan.

The biggest fashion trend at this Milan Fashion Week? Forget the clothes, it's all about the noughties models. Opening the show at Ports 1961, British model Lily Donaldson was the latest in a series of major names from the past decade making appearances on the runway this season, from Lara Stone and Gemma Ward at Prada to Mariacarla Boscono at Fendi.

Wearing peep-toe platform mules, the models showed off a series of looks balancing precise tailoring and a chic loucheness. There was plenty of sheer fabric, alongside functional utility pockets, and bags of pleats which came in panels, placed asymmetrically. All that military rigor was summed up with the menswear shirting elements (Binx Walton wore a stunning white starched bib-front shirt) and the metal buttoned double-breasted dresses.

There were lots of buttery leathers but as usual for Ports 1961, no prints: just solid whites, beiges, powder pinks, creams and black. The beauty story followed this season's general trend for nude faces, bold brows and center-parted hair. Oh and alongside those noughties name? Kendall Jenner, a model about as twenty-teens as you can get.